Hoscakal Istanbul

Hoscakal means goodbye in Turkish. It is said by the person leaving. I know it’s a bit late in the game, but I just got comfortable saying this/was able to remember the word at the appropriate moment. Usually, I’d just smile, wave and say “tesekkur” (thank you). And now we are leaving. I am feeling many things as the kids and I embark on this long journey. I am very excited to return to the U.S., to see family and to catch up with friends and meet many new babies. I’m sad to be leaving Matt (he will leave Istanbul August 2 and spend a few days in London with his brother, Nate, before he arrives in Boston on August 6) and missing Istanbul already.

My Istanbul experience was one I will never forget. This city gets under your skin and I’m not sure if you become part of it or it becomes part of you. I think I’ve felt every emotion here at one time or another. It was like a lifetime in only eight weeks. Luckily, the fun and enjoyment definitely peaked at the end. In many ways, I feel like we are just hitting our stride, but then again, home is so close that I can feel it.

The last six months have been a treasure for our family. We will always remember this experience fondly. When Matt and I finished our last six-month journey, we wondered if we’d ever be able to do it again. No one needs me to list all that has changed in six short years, but one thing that hasn’t is our shared love of travel. Let’s see where we are in six more years.

Hoscakal, Istanbul and tesekkur.

The Sweet Life

What a difference a week (actually eight days) makes. That’s how long we’ve been in our Caddebostan home. Caroline, Luke and I are able to spend our days at some new and exciting playgrounds, a pretty park or walking around busy, tree-lined Bagdat Street with it’s many shops and restaurants. Oh yeah, I didn’t mention the beautiful boardwalk that takes us along the sea to Caddebostan Plaji (the beach!). It’s not Lighthouse Beach, but it’s cool water and sand and it keeps us plenty entertained. We are also just a 15 minute bus ride to Kadikoy where we can jump on the ferry and zip over to Europe for the day, something we’ve been doing weekly since we got here, but now the trip isn’t painful! And when we don’t feel like being outside – well, you saw the view. It’s not bad to look at from the air-conditioned living room ;).

Since the move, all that cooking I’d been doing has taken a back seat to those good restaurants I mentioned. Turkish food is delicious - from the grilled meats to vegetable and olive oil dishes to the desserts. I’ve never seen nor eaten such amazing baklava and other sticky treats such as kadyif with ice cream on top. Then there are the delectable Magnum ice cream bars – vanilla, caramel and a chocolate layer all dipped in another layer of delicious chocolate. Matt and I discovered these during Istanbul Part 1 back in 2002, but they’re even better than I remembered. And lastly, Caroline and I finally tried, “the waffle” today. It’s a waffle (obviously) smeared with chocolate and filled with whatever you like. We chose bananas, strawberries and kiwi (healthy ;).

Caroline, Luke and I leave Turkey July 10 (Matt will join us August 6 after a short stop in London). It’s hard to believe that our time in Turkey and our time abroad is coming to an end. I’m very excited to get home, but I have wonderful memories from this experience… and I’m glad we got to end it on a “sweet” note.

Mary

Movin' on Up!

Our Istanbul experience changed considerably a week ago. Thanks to the generosity of Didem Altop, the director of Endeavor Turkey, and her parents (its their apartment), we moved to a new home in the posh seaside community of Caddebostan. We are living on the 20th floor with an amazing view (see the photo above) and have a 10 minute walk to the sea and only a 15-minute bus ride to the ferries to the European side. It has been a great change for us. There is so much more for Mary and the kids to do and the relaxed, beachy feel to the community is great. Our new locale will only make the rest of our time in Istanbul that much better.

Back in Istanbul (with kids)

We arrived in Istanbul, one of our favorite cities in the world, on May 16th. We were very excited to be back. The experience was going to be very different than our around-the-world adventures six years ago, however. It was not going to be simply exploring Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque and all of the other major sights on the European Side, watching the Aya Sofya glow in the setting sun from the hostel roof deck with a cold Efes in hand and avoiding the persistent carpet salesmen. No…this time it included ten more weeks, two kids, living on the Asian side and WORK.

Some may wonder what we are doing in Turkey anyway. Well, I received an internship through Endeavor, a great organization that supports high-impact entrepreneurs in emerging economies. I am working with a company called PIWorks (www.piworks.net), a mobile network optimization software and services company, in Turkey this summer. They are looking to raise some venture capital or “angel” money this summer to grow their business and take it to the “next level”. My experience as a private equity and venture capital attorney was a good fit for them and I could also help them with their strategic planning, corporate governance and organization development and anything else they threw at me. Basically, I am their consultant for the summer and do whatever they need me to do.

Our first five weeks in Istanbul were both incredibly fun and immensely challenging. We used our first few days before I started working and every weekend since, to go out and explore this great city. We enjoyed sharing all the places we visited last time around with the kids, including Topkapi Palace, Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque, the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Market and Taksim Square. It is so fun to see familiar places through the eyes of toddlers – even if it means trying to catch a squealing 1 ½ year old racing through the once quiet, serene interior of a mosque.

The weekdays proved to be quite difficult, however. Luke chose to stop using his pacifier and began waking up screaming and angry in the middle of the night (and staying awake at 5:30 am). The sleep deprivation this caused, combined with the feeling of isolation that resulted from living in a part of Istanbul far from the city center with few English speakers, no expat community and no car (and poor public transportation options), left Mary longing for home and our support network there. Over time, we settled in a little bit and made the best of it (and Luke starting sleeping better as well). We are so grateful for the support we received from our parents and friends to help through this difficult time (including a much-needed visit by a familiar face- Ed’s girlfriend, Courtney). And thank you to the creators of Skype…we couldn’t have done it without you.

We look forward to the remainder of our time here in Istanbul. This is a special place. We also are very excited to get home and see all of our friends and family. We have been living abroad for 6 months now. It has been incredibly rewarding and such a great adventure. But…we can’t wait to sit on the deck in Chatham watching the sunset, relaxing with our family and friends and thinking back to all the amazing things that we have done this year (with a cold Sam Adams in our hands).

Matt

Viva Italia!

We were thrilled to arrive in Milan. Our time in Italy would give us the chance to see family and the beauty that Italy offers… and we couldn’t wait to get our first taste of that thing that tells us God REALLY loves us – gelato!

We arrived late in Milan and spent one night and one day there. We visited the very impressive Duomo and the kids tasted their first-ever gelato in front of it. From there we got a bag of warm, salty focaccia bread and headed to the fountain in front of Castello Sforzesco to meet cousin Giovanni. (His grandfather and my grandmother were first cousins). Matt and I had not seen him since we attended a football match with him in Verona back in 2002. He took us for a nice walk around the streets of Milan. Caroline, who was slow to warm up to him initially, was holding his hand by the end. You would have thought she was showing him around.

That evening, we got on a train to Viareggio – a seaside town in Tuscany. Upon our arrival, cousin Gaia (Giovanni’s sister) was there to meet us and take us to her home in Lucca. We were all tired, but so pleased to be at our destination. The last time I saw Gaia and her now-husband Nicola, life was very different for all of us. They were not yet married and were living in a different home, we were fresh off of our “Big Trip” and, oh yeah, neither we, nor they, had children yet. Now, there are four kids between us. That’s what five short years will do, I guess. Alice in almost 3 and Luca is 10 months old. (I know, Luke and Luca meeting in Lucca – you can’t make that up!). When her kids and my kids met, another generation would know each other. Our grandparents were smiling down.

Gaia showed us to our rooms, which was really our own wing of the house. We hadn’t planned to spend all of our eight nights and nine days with them, but the kids (and we) were so comfortable in that house and in those beds that we were compelled to stay. It was one of our most restful and relaxing times in recent memory.

Lucca is a beautiful city in Tuscany. It is known as the only city in Italy with its walls fully intact. Cars are not allowed in the streets of the Old Town, so it is just people, dogs and bicycles. We got some exercise running on the walls and also took Gaia and Nicola’s bikes with child seats for the kids.

The weather in Lucca, though forecasted differently, was always sunny and warm. We walked on the walls and in the beautiful squares with the kids every day, found several playgrounds (I wish we had a count of all the PGs we’ve visited since late January), walked into and by Lucca’s many churches, ate lots of pizza, pasta, fish and did what we could to find the best gelato in town.

Our favorite times were spent with Gaia and family. Caroline and Luke had lots of fun playing with Alice and really enjoyed sweet, little Luca. We spent a couple of great days (Mothers’ Day being one) at a beach club with them in Viareggio. It was pre-beach season, so not crowded, but warm, breezy and pleasant. We even swam! The kids loved playing in the sand and the girls flew a kite. We had some of our best meals in Viareggio. You can’t beat a seafood lunch right by the sea. The crab with fresh pasta and homemade ricotta cheesecake stand out in my mind. Mmmm!

We did take a short bus ride to Pisa and all enjoyed seeing the Leaning Tower, but that was about it. As well seasoned as our young travelers are, that was not a good day for them. When traveling with small kids, you have to know when to pack it up and go home. After seeing the tower, having lunch, and avoiding raindrops, that’s just what we did – we jumped on our bus and went back to Lucca.

The night before we left, we celebrated Nicola’s birthday with him around their big table where we’d had so many great meals. Our time in Lucca was amazing. It was a different pace than we usually move at, but so restful and enjoyable. It was so pleasing for me to see Gaia and her children (and Giovanni, too) and to know that our familial connection is alive and well… and now extended.

Our time in Italy came to a close with a half-day in Bergamo. We probably would never have visited this place, except for the fact that our flight to Istanbul left from there the next morning. What a great surprise it was! Cita Alta, the old part of the city up on the top of the steep hill offered amazing views, quaint narrow cobblestone streets and beautiful old churches and municipal buildings. We decided to splurge a little bit for our farewell dinner – complete with apertifa, homemade pasta, wine and our final gelato. Italy will always be one of our favorite places on Earth. Until next time, Arrivederci Italia!

Unwinding in Stockholm

After a long week of finals and packing it was so nice to kick back and relax for six days in Stockholm. We stayed with our friends, Nancy and Glenn Lindqvist, and their beautiful daughter, Emily. It was wonderful to not have anything to think about other than spending some quality time with each other and our friends and figuring out what lovely place in Stockholm we were going to explore next. Every day we took the train or bus into the city to see something new. We visited the historic, cobble-stoned alleys of Gamla Stan (the Old Town), the spectacular Drottningholm Palace, the fascinating Vasa Museum that showcased the huge wooden ship that lay on the bottom of Stockholm's harbor for hundreds of years and the Skansen open-air museum. After being surrounded by water each day, we decided to spend our last day taking the "Under the Bridges" cruise around Stockholm. It was a wonderful way to close our adventures in this gorgeous city.

We really enjoyed spending time with Nancy and Glenn, who we got to know very well during our time in Boston. Nancy also was a high school classmate of Matt's in Minnesota. They are so lucky to be living in such a great spot. We were so lucky that they shared their home with us (even with two wild and crazy kids). I hope you enjoy some of our pictures from Stockholm - it is hard to do the scenery justice. Next stop: Italy!

Farewell Prague (Already?)!

Hello Prague. Goodbye Prague. In many ways, those four words and their brevity feel like the six weeks we spent in the Czech Republic. During our time there, we only posted one entry to our blog and that was just one small event.

Prague is one of the most beautiful cities that we’ve seen (and that’s getting to be a lot of cities). There are many things to do in Prague, but what makes it so magical is its ever present, yet unassuming beauty. In fact, we became so accustomed to being surrounded by spectacular buildings that we often had to remind ourselves to simply stop and look up at the architecture around us. The Old Town Square is a vast space of cobblestone surrounded by the fanciful steeples of Tyn Church, painted art nouveau buildings, The Old Town Hall, the Church of St. Nicholas and several pricey cafes. A statue of Jan Huss floats in the square, surrounded by vibrant tulips. But the reason that we visited the square everyday was none of these things. It was the horse-drawn carriages, or more specifically, the “Or-sies!” as Luke so affectionately yelled with each sight of them. The Charles Bridge and Prague Castle require special mention, especially when seen at night, illuminated in all their splendor. We never tired of strolling along the river at night with the imposing Prague Castle lit up in the distance.

When we arrived in Prague on March 18, it felt like winter. In fact, it was snowing sideways! But in the six short weeks we were there, we experienced that wonderful transition from winter to spring. We saw trees and flowers bud and then bloom. The parks at Letna and Petrin Hill provided huge, lush green spaces and amazing views of the Vltava River and city below.

We were lucky enough to have both sets of parents/grandparents and (Uncle) Nate visit us in Prague. It was great sharing our Czech Republic home with them. One great thing about grandparents is FREE BABYSITTING – and although we didn’t take advantage of the opportunity enough (they might disagree), we enjoyed hitting the town a little on our own.

Matt’s Thunderbird experience in Prague was excellent. He was very busy with group projects, but he had plenty of downtime to enjoy life away from school. In fact, we all went down to a beautiful town called Cesky Krumlov with Matt’s classmates. They didn’t know what to think of having the whole Austin crew plus the Casabians on the bus heading back to Prague. It is hard to believe that one year of school is done – only two more trimesters to go!

We have included a sampling of our vast collection of pictures from our time in the Czech Republic. We hope you enjoy. Next stop: Stockholm!

Running Through Prague

The Prague Half Marathon was yesterday. I first heard about this race months ago from my good friend and running buddy, Lori. After running the Boston Marathon together in 1998 and a half marathon last May, we had hopes of doing this race together, but it was not to be. Prague is a long way to travel for a race. Any other time, that would have been the case for me, too, but on March 29, 2008, the whole thing was just a few blocks away. So, of course I had to do it. I knew it was the right decision when I picked up my race number – 227 – that’s my high school field hockey number (22) and college number (7)!

It was a good running day overall – partly sunny and in the high 40s – the only drawback was a nasty headwind at times. There were more race participants than I had expected and to say that the field was international would be an understatement. All announcements were made in Czech, German, English, Spanish, French, Italian and Dutch.

During the first part of the race, we charged over a bridge with a full view of the Prague Castle in front of us (yes, castle!). We then ran along the river and back into a part of Prague that I don’t think many tourists see. It still has a communist feel. Next, we hit the New Town, then the Old Town, more river and done! Somehow, after Kilometer 12, the kilometers just ticked by. Matt, Caroline and Luke were waiting for me at the 1 Km and 9 Km marks and then saw me finish. It was such a boost knowing they’d be waiting. Some Thunderbirds even came out to cheer me on. I ran in 1:38.24 and was the first American woman to finish (but I don’t think there were too many of us.).

The best part was that I felt good at the end of the race. I was able to fully enjoy the post-race party at our place and enjoy some good Czech pivo (beer) that I’d sworn off for two whole days in preparation for the race. Life in Prague is good.

Mary

Back from the Beach

Hi again from Monterrey. Today is the beginning of our final week in this city. Next week at this time we will be on our way to Prague!

We returned last night from a 4 day jaunt to Playa del Carmen. It was a wonderful trip which we all enjoyed. Matt has been extremely busy with school obligations. Two weeks ago, he took a 6 day trip to New York for an International Development Trek and then started 3 days of finals the day after he returned. Needless to say, we hadn’t seen much of him and what better way to catch up than on the beach! He literally finished his last final and we jumped into a taxi for the airport.

We stayed at a little hotel called La Rana Consada (The Lazy Frog). It had a real Carribean feel to it and was 2 blocks from the beach and less than a block from 5th Avenue, Playa’s main drag. We had 3 great beach days in the aquamarine sea. Caroline and Luke had fun playing in the sand and jumping the waves (with some help from us). We enjoyed strolling 5th Avenue, having dinner and window shopping. Mitch, Heather and Dylan arrived with Heather’s parents the day before we left. Caroline and Luke had fun playing Mr. Potato Head with Dylan and Luke and Dylan enjoyed racing each other up and down the hall. Caroline and Luke adore their cousin and their Uncle Mitch and Auntie Heather. It was great to spend some time with them, though much too short.

It’s hard to believe that our time in Mexico is drawing to a close. The places we’ve been – Puebla, Monterrey and Playa del Carmen – have all been different, but we’ve enjoyed each of them and it is with mixed emotions that we move on from here. Prague, no doubt, will offer many more rewarding experiences. Until next time -

Back from the Beach

"It Happened in Monterrey"

Hola from Monterrey, Mexico. Monterrey has been our home for almost four weeks, but in many ways, it feels that we've been here a lifetime. This group has proven that it really settles in quickly. We are living in a three bedroom condo that sits up on a hill. We have a spectacular view. We look down on the city and out at Silla Mountain ("Saddle Mountain"). The Sierra Madres surround Monterrey and offer an amazing setting. Our days are not too different from our days in Arizona. Matt is busy studying at EGADE, home of his Monterrey program. Caroline, Luke and I are trying to find as many playgrounds and activities as possible. We also enjoy using our very limited Spanish while going about simple daily activities. We've met some very nice American families with kids through the "Newcomers of Monterrey" group.

We were reunited with Matt in Puebla on January 23. We missed him so much during the more than three weeks that we were apart. I’m not sure I have ever seen our children so happy as when they saw their dad in the Mexico City airport. We still have much to learn about Monterrey, but so far we’ve discovered the Macro Plaza, a large pedestrian walkway in the city center with lots of monuments; Parque Fundidora, a huge park where a little of everything goes on and attaches to a brand new Riverwalk; and Chipinque, a state park in the mountains. We took Caroline and Luke to Parque Plaza Sesamo, a Sesame Street theme park, Mexican style. Elmo was there, but no Ernie, Burt or Big Bird. There were characters that looked just like Ernie and Burt, but in Mexico, their names are Enrique and Beto. Big Bird’s cousin, Abelardo Montoya, shows quite a likeness, though he is smaller… and green.

Matt’s parents spent a week and a half with us. We took a boat down the Paseo San Lucia, saw the Horsetail Falls, toured the “Grutas di Garcia” caves and had a very interesting experience at the Bioparque where we got up close and personal with a giraffe. We enjoyed celebrating Valentine’s Day and Gary’s birthday with them and Caroline loved having them as roommates.

"It Happened in Monterrey" refers to a Frank Sinatra song. Check out this YouTube video with the recording and some pictures of the sights:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdSQMS6Owuw

Check back for more updates… we promise they’ll be more frequent!

Hola From Mexico

It is hard to believe, but my Spanish immersion class in Puebla, Mexico is half over. I am writing from Cuernavaca, a smaller city that is a couple of hours from Puebla. I am staying with a very nice host family here for 3 nights and continuing to learn more Spanish on a daily basis. It has been a challenge, but a great experience so far. In Puebla, we are staying in a historic old hotel and its charm and location nearly make up for its lack of heat. Our hotel is a block away from the beautiful tree-filled "zocalo" (main square) of Puebla. From our roof classroom, you can see the grand "Catedral" and Popo, an active volcano off in the distance. One of the highlights so far was a night out at "La Lucha Libre," the classic Mexican wrestling experience. Although highly politically incorrect, it was a blast. It was one of those times where I probably was glad not to know too much Spanish as the crowd was very "enthusiastic" and were free in their use of language. Needless to say, we will be going back and I will have to pick up mask for myself.

Mary and the kids will be joining me in Puebla in a week. I can't wait for them to get down here and share in this experience. Caroline has been practicing her Spanish - she can count to ten, say "hi" and tell you what apples and toy soldiers are in Spanish (in case you need to know). She will probably be speaking better than me by the time that we leave Monterrey in mid-March. Keep in touch. Hasta luego.

Matt