Border Run and Beach

Our family had to make a last minute “border run” recently. We found out on Monday exactly two weeks ago that we needed to leave Peru that Thursday in order to avoid the penalty that would come from exceeding our 183 day visa. With the great assistance of Matt’s employer, arrangements were quickly put in place for us to travel north into Ecuador.

Because of Fiestas Patrias (July 28 – Peru’s independence day) and the 11^th hour nature of our trip, we had to take a bus from Lima to Tumbes in the north of Peru and then go through an assortment of steps, the last of which entailed crossing the bridge to Ecuador on foot. Once in Ecuador, we needed to take a taxi to Machala which is a little more than an hour from the border. The best parts of the trip were the posh bus “suites” with 180 degree reclining seats and the incredible patience of our young children. The worst part – there’s only one. It took us 25 hours to get from Lima to our hotel in Ecuador!

We only spent a little more than a day in Ecuador, but got to see thousands of banana trees on our taxi ride in and out of Machala, the banana capital of the world (no we never actually ate a banana there). We also experienced some unique travel as we took a 20-seater motor boat to the island of Jambali, sailing past mangroves and lots of exotic looking birds. In Jambali’s tired beach town, we rejoiced at being in the sun, warmth and water! We ate oranges the way the locals do with the orange peel removed leaving only the thick white pith and top removed. Just squeeze and suck the juice. (They also have Magnums in Ecuador, which a few of you will appreciate.)

After only 2 nights in Machala, it was hard to convince Caroline and Luke that it was time to hit the road again. Luke’s response to this information, “I’m not leaving this hotel again, EVER!” Somehow (read: chocolate), 4 hours later, we were back in Peru and truly on vacation in Punta Sal.

All I could say was, “Wow, this A LOT nicer than I thought it was going to be.” Matt totally agreed. Remember that we had almost no lead time for this trip so expectations were low and we were very pleasantly surprised.

Our little place, the Hotel Sunset, was expecting a big turnout for the holiday on July 28 (my brother’s birthday, incidently), but the first 2 days of our stay, the place belonged to us. We enjoyed the pool deck overlooking the beach, the shaded outdoor seating area, our room with private porch (and bunk beds for the kids ala my parents’ house in Chatham) and a great sandy beach and healing ocean. I said more than several times, “This is heaven.” For those of you who read my last blog entry, I could feel a smile spreading through my sad soul.

It was a perfect, relaxing family vacation. Our agenda was simple. Have fun. Laugh a lot. No fighting. Eat well. Lose track of time. Get plenty of rest. No sunburns. No throwing sand (Luke). We did it all and more – early morning walks on the beach, sunsets, a run or two, “girl time” and “guy time” (even some quality “grown-up time” on the porch post kids bedtime), dino-mans and pearls (an elaborate sand sculpture of dinosaurs and “pearls” and ocean-inspired bendaroos created by Matt and kids). Matt and I finished a book each – in only a few days. We happily stuck to the game plan and nailed it.

It was so simple, yet so great. After a 17 hour bus ride, we are now back in Lima and able to stay in Peru for an additional 183 days. It is still cloudy here and will be for months more. Things look much the way they did before we left, yet I feel different inside for there are great memories in my head and there IS sunshine… in my heart.

My Perfect Chatham Day

I have a serious case of "blogger guilt" (if there's such a thing). How do more than 2 months of great blogging material go by without being captured? A May visit from my friend, Julie, the start of my very own Bootcamp class, Matt's parents' 3-week stay in Peru, Machu Picchu, saying goodbye to friends who've moved away and July 4 in Lima to name a few noteworthy instances in our lives. I've wanted to write about these things - still do - but I just can't right now.

At the moment Lima, Peru is not where my heart is. My heart is in a quaint town called Chatham that sits alongside that other ocean. I decided that even if I can't be there, I can pretend that I am - just for a few moments. That might sound crazy, but somehow, it's comforting.

July 12, 2010

My perfect Chatham day.

I want to sit on the porch at 71 Seaview drinking water and coffee post-run, chatting with Matt and my parents while feeding the kids breakfast. I want to see the sun shining on all the plants, trees and flowers that surround the houses. I want Dad to show me his garden. I want to go to the beach - to take the kids down to Oyster Pond and watch Caroline swim and Luke learning. I want that feeling you have when you don't know the time and have no where to be and are just enjoying the beach - I love when the kids have it, too. I want to chat with my mom as we sit in low beach chairs and go bike riding with my dad and let him treat me to breakfast at Lazy Lobster. I want to see my brother, my cousins, my aunts, my uncles, my friends and their kids. I want to drink a summer beer on the deck immediately after I take an outdoor shower. I want to eat grilled vegetables and steaks and eat fresh tomato salad with lots of basil from the garden. I want American ice cream and pie for dessert. I want to put the kids to bed and walk into town with Matt. I want to go to bed too late and wake up early to watch the sun rise with my mom. And then, I want to do it all again.

Photo: Caroline and Luke with my cousin's daughter, Julia. Summer 2009.

Mis Amigas

Once you’ve moved to a new home, whether it’s across town or in our case, to another continent; once you’ve found your dwelling and unpacked your bags; once you’ve filled your fridge and gotten some rest, you need to find friends. I have learned that having contact with people in our daily life is not only preferential; it is essential to our happiness. I can’t think of any way to say this other than, “thank God for friends!”

I feel incredibly, incredibly fortunate to have found a great group of women here in Lima. It started with two families that we met at a weekend farmers’ market. While I was buying fruits and vegetables, Matt and the kids were talking with a group of Americans in an adjacent park. They spotted Matt as a fellow American from his baseball hat and the way he walked! Lis and Sergio and Heidi and Barron have four kids between then and generously gave us their contact information.

Twice that week we were swimming at Lis and Sergio’s place. We also had the chance to meet other American couples and their kids and attended a traditional stuff yourself until you feel sick, American cook out and pool party. We even met a little girl named Ava who is Caroline’s age. I should specify that she is EXACTLY Caroline’s age – they have the same birthday. Ironically, we had seen Ava and her mom, Julie, the day before while grocery shopping. We noticed them and even heard them speaking English. In any other situation, I would have introduced ourselves, but on that day, we were having one of “those kinds of days.” Did I mention we were grocery shopping? God or whoever is in control of people meeting, really wanted us to meet, I guess.

Since meeting these women I have done the following – visited a great fruit and vegetable market and meat market, been swimming in a pool overlooking the Pacific Ocean, gone running and walking, been to the park numerous times, had a manicure and pedicure, been shopping for ballet and karate outfits, eaten at a great pizza place with wood burning ovens, sat and chatted in an actual home, been introduced into another playgroup, had coffee at Starbuck’s, played kickball at the American embassy, borrowed an aerobed and baking supplies, been gifted with toaster waffles, Jif peanut butter and cheddar cheese from the commissary, been given travel information, signed up for a half marathon and borrowed almost as many children’s books as we packed in our suitcases!

For my 35^th birthday, they treated me to brunch. As we chatted around the table, I couldn’t help but think that I’d already gotten the very best present I could have this year. They’re generosity and welcoming spirit has been an amazing example of friendship. – even more incredible when I realize that I didn’t know any of them until March!

I’ve live in many places – some for short periods, some longer – and the favorite places in my life have always involved great people. My friend Cara said it best recently. She said, “A place is just a place until you find friends to make memories with, then it’s a home.” I feel truly blessed to have the friends I do – both near and far.

Nido Welcome

Today is Caroline and Luke’s 19^th day of school and it’s time to write about “Nido Welcome.” After checking out several schools, we found one 5 minutes from our home where they could both attend. Their day begins around 8:45 and ends at 1:15 – at least it will eventually. The school is gradually building up to this ending time. This week, they are picked up at 12:30 (we’ve done 11, 11:30 and noon prior to!). Miss Elizabeth, who is the director of the school and also one of Caroline’s teachers, is fluent in English and studied at Rice University. She keeps me in the loop! Luke’s teacher, Miss Maribel, knows enough English that she can “assist” Luke. With her English and my Spanish, we are able to “talk” to each other.

Choosing a school for the kids was something that we were anxious about when moving to Peru, but the first day the kids and I stepped foot in the school, I knew it was the right place. Caroline is in the “kinder class” and is already singing in Spanish and bringing home new words every day. Her class has only 7 children and a teacher’s aid whom she adores. She is comfortable and happy. Luke is with the 3 year olds and appears to have made some friends. Miss Maribel says las ninas (the girls) like him a lot! When I pick him up, I often find him doing a new puzzle. Yesterday, he was working on a fruit puzzle. When he finished, he told me the names of the fruits in Spanish! They are learning and it is amazing!

Early childhood education in Peru is quite different from that in the U.S. Here, the kids dress in uniforms and have textbooks (which need to be covered with a clear material called vinifan – ask Matt about this one!). It is a little more academic than the U.S., but they are having fun, enjoying time with peers and learning a new language. Music, karate and ballet (for the girls), which start in April, are also part of the curriculum.

Each morning as I kiss and hug them goodbye, I stand in awe of these two brave souls taking on school in a different language and a different culture. And each afternoon that I pick them up, I’m so pleased to find them smiling and happy… and smelling good (“kid cologne” is applied after recess - another difference J)!

Father-Daughter Sunset Photo Shoot

This past week, Caroline and I had the chance to walk over to the Malecon to spend a little quality time together watching the sunset. We each brought a camera along and grabbed a patch of grass on the edge of the cliffs overlooking the ocean where the paragliders take off during the day. It was great just hanging out with each other and experiencing the glorious sunset together. These pictures do not even come close to showing the amazing beauty of the sunset (or Caroline).

Creme de la Cremolada

The “sweetest” thing about living at our apartment on Bolognesi is that we are directly across the street from Curich Cremolada which Luke calls “the fruit drink place.” A cremolada is similar to a slurpee, but about a million times better. It starts out as a treat you eat with a spoon and as it melts, becomes an icy drink. Caroline and Luke have learned that cremoladas are to be savored. One or two quick bites result in severe brain freeze! We are working our way through the many flavors including Peruvian fruits lucuma, guanábana, maracuya, camu camu and tuna (not the fish!). I think we’ve tried 14 different flavors with 30 or so more to go!

Here's a photo of Luke enjoying a new flavor - uva (grape).

Lima: The Beginning

It has been more than 50 days since we left Boston for Lima, Peru and I am embarrassed to say that this is my first entry in our now resurrected blog. All I can say is “better late than never.” We’ve been busy settling in and adjusting to life in Lima. In this entry, I’ll try to bring you up to speed and I promise to be more forthcoming with stories from Peru. We miss everyone back home and think of you often. I know many are curious to see pictures and hear of our time here. I promise to do a better job!

Our first two weeks in Lima were spent at the Residencial Carlos, a small hotel in San Isidro. The week before we arrived in Lima, we learned that my friend Jennifer’s mom, Betsy (who is from Peru), has a cousin who owns a hotel in Lima (little did we know we would spend 13 nights at “Aurora’s place” as Caroline and Luke dubbed it). When we stepped off of the plane late at night in Lima, we were met by a driver holding up a sign for “Mat Augustin.” Matt and I looked at each other and decided that was probably us. The driver whisked us through the night streets of Lima to our very quiet, very nice hotel with it’s beautiful garden, pet turtle, delicious breakfast of fresh rolls, eggs, papaya and fresh-squeezed orange juice, which we enjoyed for about 9 or 10 mornings in a row!

We spent our first week enjoying the warm temperatures and sunshine. It was great to pull on short sleeves while leaving our winter coats, hats and boots behind. We haven’t missed them, yet! We explored the beautiful parks of Miraflores, where we now live. We took great pleasure in seeing the vast Pacific Ocean from atop the cliffs of Lima. We explored new grocery stores, visited Larcomar (an outdoor shopping center with restaurants, stores and “kid rides”- Caroline and Luke’s favorite place in all of Lima), and strolled along the Malecon (the long pedestrian and bike road that goes along the ocean and connects the parks). We also began an apartment search that was interesting and quite laborious. We did get to “know” Miraflores quite well during that time. Two weeks isn’t a long time to find an apartment… except when you are a family of four living in one room!

We finally moved in to our current home on February 5. It was the very last place we viewed. Even though we felt at that point that we’d move into the next place we saw (no matter what), it is by far the best. We are in a great location and can walk anywhere we like (which is good since we don’t have a car). We are a block away from the famous Parque del Amour and the cliffs that overlook the ocean. Matt and I enjoy running on the malecon most mornings. The kids love the parks and “hiking” down to the ocean. We can walk to playgrounds, Larcomar and supermarkets. Matt is also able to walk to work.

Above is a photo from the malecon – one block from our place. Hope it convinces some of you to come visit us in Lima!

Since I Last Wrote (or How We Got to Lima, Peru)....

It has been about 20 months since my last post from another country. Then we were in Istanbul, and now we are in Lima, Peru! Let me get you up to speed.

The past year and a half have been very full for this family. During that time, Caroline and Luke changed from 3.5 and 1.5 year-olds into 5 and 3 year-olds (so different!). We spent 6 weeks of the summer of 2008 in Chatham surrounded by family which we (I) sorely needed! In the fall, we moved back to Arizona for Matt's final year of business school at Thunderbird. We made some awesome friends while there and really came to appreciate all that Arizona offered. Caroline completed her first year of preschool. Matt graduated in May 2009 and began a lengthy job search which eventually earned him a fellowship with Ciudad Saludable, a wonderful organization based in Lima that is transforming solid waste management and environmental practices in Peru and beyond.

During our extra long summer (which extended through the fall and into winter), we became Chatham residents. The summer of 2009 was a great time with many extended visits from friends and family. We filled our days with time at the beach, swimming lessons, Cape Cod League baseball games, many meals on my parents' deck, Friday night band concerts and lots of laughs.

Caroline and Luke both attended preschool in the fall, and we had the chance to feel like "locals" for a short time. The kids quickly adjusted to their schools and truly enjoyed the new friends and experiences they were able to have. While they were excited for the chance to go to South America, they were sad to leave their schools behind.

In an effort to see as many friends as family before our almost year-long departure, we decided to take an 18-day roadtrip to Minneapolis to spend Christmas with Matt's family. It never sounded like a good idea to me, but it turned out that it absolutely was. We made stops in Ohio and Chicago on our way out and visited with friends in the PA/ NJ area on the way home. Our time in Minnesota was worth all of the miles it took to get to and from there. After this trip we were unconcerned about a 12+ hour travel day to South America. In a car, that's how long it took us to get from Minneapolis to Youngstown, OH! Caroline and Luke were champs the entire way. Well, almost. They both melted down crossing the Sagamore Bridge - about 40 minutes from Chatham! Kids.

As we packed our bags and moved our things around (nothing new for us... or my parents who are the keepers o' our stuff :), we felt great excitement for this opportunity which we had been waiting and waiting and waiting for! Living in limbo isn't my favorite thing. Life still happens, quite happily, actually, but it can also be a stagnant feeling. Thankfully, we have a wonderful support system of friends and family whom we were able to spend time with. We realize we would not have had this had a job opportunity presented itself more quickly.

So now we are 5 days in Lima. Lots still to be done here. We need to find an apartment and learn more Spanish! More to follow....